Two massive and absorbing lines on a magnificant North-East face in the heartland of Aberdonian mountaineering.
Central Buttress 250m
Black Spout Buttress 250m
Central Buttress - Hard- Grade 4 Scramble
Black Spout Buttress- Hard- Grade 4 Scramble
Approach Time (Approximate)
Total Trip Length
Strong summer hillwalking experience. Some previous experience of scrambling at Grade 2 or above.
Is it for me?
As a mountaineering experience in the UK, its hard to beat this ambitious expedition into jaws of the Lochnager massif. This trip is another EverydayClimbing favourite and epitomises everything we love about remote scrambling in the UK. Two audacious lines follow good quality rock through dramatic terrain in a expansive corrie. The approach demands commitment and an optional night wild camping below the complex cliff fosters a sense of adventure. We think this trip is up there with the ultimate mountaineering experiences to be had in the UK.
Starting at Glen Muick we set the tone early with fantasic views down the steep sided loch. Later, fairly easy walking over a broad col gives us tantalising glimpes of the destination, but its not until we cross the col of Meikle pap that the extensive cliffs dominating the Corrie of Lochnagar become truely all encompassing.
Once in the corrie we leave our optional overnight equipment at the base of our first route and rope up to ascend Central Buttress, a long route through the rambling crag on the left edge of the cliffs. Sometimes broad, sometimes narrowing down to a sharp ridge, this route follows the easiest line through some very technical ground, with several airy and exposed moves. Luckily you will have an experienced instructor above you at all times, ready with encouragement, advice and a tight rope. Meaning you get to enjoy all the fantastic positions this routes offers. Looping back around the top of the cliff, we drop back to our equipment and take a well earned rest with the dramatic backdrop of 1000ft high cliffs.
Our second objective is Black Spout Buttress. This route is harder and more exposed than Central Buttress and forges a line directly through the middle of the cliff, overlooking an enormous gully on our left side. The route has some technical and awkward sections of mountaineering that just edge into true rock climbing. But good holds soon come and are followed through steep ground and extraordinary scenery to the top. The top of our route deposits us on the plateau just a few hundred meters from the summit of Lochnagar itself and a short detour ticks this mighty Munro. Our descent is an atmospheric journey down the bounding gully we climbed alongside, be sure to look up as we desend and consider the position we were in just an hour ago.
Once successfully back at the start of our route, we can either retrace our steps back to civilisation and the high plateau and quiet corrie to the wild mountain hares or instead choose to spend a quiet night alongside them and soak up the atmosphere of this impressive location.
Mountains included in route
Cac carn Berg (Lochnagar) 1155m (optional)
Cac Carn Mor 1150m (optional)
Meikle Pap 980m (optional)
This is a one or two day expedition to a remote venue. Camping equipment is not provided. You will climb several routes during this experience.
This multi-day experience typically starts at 8am on day one and finishs at 10am on day two. Please note that very remote crags or long routes require the experience to start earlier and finish later than this. You will be guided on the routes by an independently qualified, fully insured and competent Rock Climbing and Mountaineering Instructor. The instructor will choose routes based on your experience, fitness and preferences and will aways try to give you several options. All climbing equipment required for the route and instruction on its use is included. Clients may use their own equipment following an inspection by the Instructor. Clients must ensure they bring appropriate clothing and equipment as listed on our kit list page. In case of dangerous weather conditions an alternative activity or a full refund will be offered. Please read our Terms and Conditions for further information.