Overview
A pair of excellent mountaineering routes in the Cairngorms, accessed by abseil and combined to allow a steady increase in difficulty, providing a logical and spectacular day out. A relatively easy approach and return makes them a great full day activity.
Route Length
Serrated Rib 120m
Final Selection 60m
Max Ratio
1:2
Experience Grade
Serrated Rib Moderate - Grade 2 Scramble
Final Selection Hard - Grade 4 Scramble
Approach Length (Approximate)
2 hrs
Total Trip Length
9km
Meeting location
Aviemore
Experience Duration
1 day
Pre-requisites
Good summer hillwalking experience. Some previous experience of scrambling, ideally at Grade 2 or above.
Is it for me?
Hidden from the tourists, just behind the bustling ski development at Coire Cas, is an astounding glacier carved corrie, The Loch Avon basin. At its centre, Loch Avon gently draws the water from the surrounding Munros and sends it Northwards, to be used by the many famous whisky distilleries that stand in the shadow of the Cairngorms.
The crags that ring this corrie are littered with world renowned rock and ice climbs and our routes, although easier than many here, are of no less quality. These two routes follow a rib, then a wall on either side of Diagonal Gully on Stag Rocks, a South facing crag on the North side of the basin.
The first route, Serrated Rib, is a great introduction to scrambling because of its broken nature, meaning although some moves are airy, they are never sustained. The line leads up some buttresses and aretes and surprisingly, through a small overhang! After following easier ground above, we reach the plateau. After crossing the top of the gully, we rig and make a full length abseil down the face we are about to climb, a great oppurtunity to inspect the hand holds!
After we regroup at the foot of the face, we gain the start of our next route, Final Selection. This great climb is steep, sustained and exposed, but on perfect, obvious holds. Some moves on the route are quite technical and just about edge into true rock climbing territory, but with a qualified and experienced instructor guiding you, you will have the opportunity to attack all the fine, exposed parts of this route head on and in perfect security. During the route, you will have fantastic views of the Shelterstone, a sheer rock tower that hosts world class climbing and was home to the first BASE jump in the Cairngorms.
From the top of the buttress, views from the plateau include all the Northern Cairngorm Munros, such as Braeriach, Ben Macdui, Bynack Mor and Cairngorm all within sight as we follow an easy return route to our starting point.
Mountains included in route
Cairn Gorm 1245m (optional)
Additional information
You will be guided on the route by a suitably qualified, fully insured and competent Mountaineering Instructor. All mountaineering equipment required for the route and instruction on its use is included. However, clients must ensure they bring appropriate clothing as listed on our kit list page. In case of dangerous weather conditions an alternative activity or a full refund will be offered. Please read our Terms and Conditions for further information.