Overview
A superlative line in a remote corrie, Steep, exposed, intimidating and serious, but covered in good holds. Considered by many to be the best route of its grade in Scotland.
Route Length
200m
Max Ratio
1:2
Experience Grade
Hard - Grade 4 Scramble
Approach Time (Approximate)
3.5hrs
Total Trip Length
15km
Meeting location
Kinlochchewe
Experience Duration
1 Day
Pre-requisites
Strong summer hillwalking experience. Some experience of scrambling, ideally at Grade 2 or above.
Is it for me?
This a bold mountaineering journey, running a gauntlet between two of Scotlands most famed Munros, before curling South-East to enter the showpiece of the mountain, Coire Mhic Fhearchair. This famed westerly corrie contains some of the finest situated mountain cliffs anywhere, including our target, The Triple Buttress. The cliffs of Triple Buttress are formed of two distinct rock types, with grey Cambrian Quartzite sitting atop Torridonian Sandstone and are famed for their incut holds, making travel through otherwise steep and serious terrain possible for a bold mountaineer.
The approach march of 8km is enough to put some people off, but for those willing, the prize is generous. The approach is good path for much of it's length and not too steep, but it is easy to trip, as on either side of the trail 3000ft peaks demand inspection. Once around the most Westerly Of Beinn Eighe's peaks, Sail Mhor, the corrie comes into view, with the Triple Buttress waiting right at the back. The route avoids greasy lower slabs by a traverse in across the dividing line of rock types, known as the Broad Terrace, this gangplank deposits us on a shelf directly in centre of the Eastern Buttress.
From here we start our climb, the blunt crest of the buttress defining the line of our route, but with much variation possible within it. The route is steep with some technical sections, but good hand and foot holds keep coming throughout and its only real flaw it that is has to end eventually.
The route tips us out onto the plateau summit of Coinneach Mhor and luckily for us, the quickest way to return is to continue along the narrowing ridge-line of Beinn Eighe. An additional few kilometers on the day gains us the summit of Spidean Coire Nan Clach, offering panoramic and far reaching views of the Northern Highlands and Western Isles. From here good trail leads us steeply down the south face of the mountain and presently, back to where we started our day.
Mountains included in route
Coinneach Mhor 976m
Spidean Coire Nan Clach 993m
Additional information
You will be guided on the route by a suitably qualified, fully insured and competent Mountaineering Instructor. All mountaineering equipment required for the route and instruction on its use is included. However, clients must ensure they bring appropriate clothing as listed on our kit list page. In case of dangerous weather conditions an alternative activity or a full refund will be offered. Please read our Terms and Conditions for further information.